Archive for October 17th, 2005

October 17, 2005

喂猪的美味

by serenq
今天晚饭的素菜是:凉拌红苕尖。这是我白吃不腻的美食。
红苕,就是红薯,或者地瓜,sweet potato.红苕尖的传统用处,是喂猪。这一习惯,想来已持续百年,所以我每每与四川人谈及我此等爱好时,都能收入亲密的嘲笑:你娃百日肥哇?还是四月肥哦?其实这些嘲笑里,有多少与我有着共同的爱好,想来如夜晚繁星,数不胜数。
既然是植物,就要长点叶子和杆。于是成都平原八九月份的天气,傍晚时分,我被老爸督促着从田野里跑步一圈归来,总是悄悄咪咪地从人家地里掐点红苕嫩尖,塞入塑料袋,作为夜饭的辅菜。夏天的夜饭,总是一大锅绿豆稀饭,数张老妈现煎的薄薄油饼,一盘撒了辣椒面并卤得红润化渣的牛肉片,一碟海椒油味精拌过的泡菜,再就是一盘小菜,或是炒蕹菜杆,或是呛凤尾,或是红苕尖。
红苕尖的吃法,在我们家不过两种:呛炒或凉拌。通常是二十分钟前从乡间掐回的嫩尖,在水龙头下翻几个身,去掉所有老而轫的杆子,只剩下一篮绿油油的叶片。若是炒,身畔的锅里,烧热了油,干辣椒花椒丢下去快活地唱支歌,把苕叶倒下,趁着油水相见时的热烈亲切的爆裂声,快速翻炒几下,撒点盐,很快便见那叶子伏顺下去,即可起锅,最妙是快炒后还保留着青翠的颜色,令人见之忘俗。若有新鲜红色朝天椒,切成小丁同炒,增色添香,更有一种飞扬跳脱的滋味。若是凉拌,乃是在锅里烧沸热水,将红苕叶片与嫩秆快速抄过断生,辅以姜米、蒜茸、花椒油、小磨香油、生抽、醋、盐、糖、辣椒油,拌匀即食。同理,若有新鲜辣椒切丁同拌,倍增其味。这种植物的妙处,在于它茎叶里那点鲜香的粘液,把这道清香的美味变得格外缠绵而柔软,在唇齿之间辗转反侧,当真是深情如许,有如夏日川西傍晚盘桓不去的天光。
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October 17, 2005

Rain season again….poor me in lab

by serenq
Raining started yesterday. There were sudden rains as well as sudden clearing ups—-bright sunshine stabing my eye all in a second! Now it is raining outside, making me a little bit drowsy. How I wish I could lay myself on bed, turn on the head lamp and read some non-academic stuff while enjoying the silent sound of rain drops outside my window….But tons of tasks waiting for me. No sleep! No relax!